Kedgeree has long been our Christmas Day breakfast – the waft of spices and the cheery yellow of the eggs feel celebratory – but we eat it for dinner all year round.
Back in India it was originally a vegetarian dish of lentils and rice; the smoked fish and eggs were only added to suit British tastes. I like the mix of smoke with the spice, so I roast celeriac with smoked salt and stir it through; I use Anglesey’s Halen Môn smoked salt, but if you can’t find it, normal salt will do. I keep my eggs pretty runny, but if you like them firm, boil them for another minute or two.
To make this vegan, as I do for my brother and sister, leave out the eggs and use oil, not butter. If you can’t find curry leaves it will be delicious without them too